Here is my first post since arriving back from Greece. Yes, I had a wonderful time, yes I wish I could still be there and yes, I am also glad to be back in Canada. I was in Greece for 42 days and I also squeezed in a side trip to Istanbul (Constantinople). I even read a book centered around the fall of Constantinople for some more insight prior to my second visit to this amazing and very historical city.
My homebase when in Greece is in and around the city of Thessaloniki, Greece’s second largest city and the capital of the province of Macedonia. Athens is the capital and the heart of Greece but Thessaloniki is the belly, feeding Greece with it’s sophisticated and diverse cuisine – influenced by the past and present peoples that settled in this multi-ethnic city. Jews from Spain’s Inquistion are still here, Greeks, Pontian Greeks from the Black Sea, Greeks from Constantinople, Smyrni and Asia Minor, Wallachians and much like Athens, Greeks from nearby towns and villages who resettled into the city looking for a better life.
As much as Greeks like (and do) take life slowly, the mornings are usually a very rushed affair. Greeks were never ones to let work get in the way of a late evening with friends, be it at a taverna, bar or nightclub. Lacking in sleep and in need of coffee (and likely a smoke), the next day begins in a hurried fashion – scrambling to get to work on time.
A lot of Greeks will grab something to eat on their way to work. You’ll find folks lined up to buy a tyropita, spanakopita or a Bougatsa me krema and eat it on the go or unwrap it at their desk. In short, breakfast (for those that eat it) in Greece is a hurried affair: either a stop at a Bougatsa or Tyropitadiko or for stop at one of the many vendors that sell one of Greece’s most well-known street food, the Koulouri.
A Koulouri is a sesame seed-coated ring of bread that can be found on the streets of Thessaloniki and Athens and most bakeries around Greece. Often they are eaten plain or when at home with some cheese, or marmalade. The Koulouri of Thessaloniki has Byzantine roots and it’s origins are from Constantinople where Christians (Greeks, Armenians) were the first bakers. Through population exchanges between Turkey and Greece, the Greeks who resettled in Thessaloniki brought along their culinary traditions with him, including the Koulouri.
My very first memories of eating a Koulouri was here in Toronto: the divine liturgy having just finished after noon and a couple of vendors outside the St.Demetrios Church would be selling Koulouria. I had never been to Greece at this point in my life but this lets you know how much a part of Greek daily life the Koulouri is.
I then saw the Koulouri on the streets of Thessaloniki on my first trip to Greece in 1974. Koulouria everywhere…at bakeries and on street corners. You best buy the Koulouri in the morning as by noon – they would be all gone! Fast forward to a few years ago and I took for first side-trip from Thessaloniki to Istanbul (Constantinople) and BAM! – I saw Koulouria there too! The Turks of Istanbul call them Simit, which refers to wheat (bread).
I can also find Koulouria here in Toronto (many Greek bakeries and shops catering to our 150,000 Greek population) and you may ask why bother making them when i can buy them? The simple answer is – I already miss Greece and through food I can be transported back through the smells and tastes of the food I’ve experienced. Food transports us back to the Patirida and the Koulouri of Thessaloniki evokes many memories for me.
These sesame covered rings of bread are not to be confused with bagels as they are not boiled and texturely, Koulouria have a crunch to the bite, leaving one with some sesame seeds on your chin and as you sink your teeth further, you taste the soft and chewy and light center. In Greece, you’ll most commonly find vendors offering the simple round Koulouri and the round braided variety. In Istanbul, the most common Koulouri (Simit) is the braid.
Of late, you will also find Koulouria with fillings like cheese, ham & cheese, chocolate, tahini or halva. I like my Koulouri old school – plain and coated generously with sesame seeds. The traditional Koulouri straddles both savory and sweet. This recipe is very easy, requires a little time for the dough to rise and beyond that, you just need to be organized and have a bowl of water to dunk the Koulouria in so that you may then coat it with sesame seeds.
In many Turkish and Greek recipes, you can take couple tablespoons of Petimezi (a mollases made of grape must) and dilute it in a cup of water and then dunk the Koulouria before covering in sesame seeds. The petimezi will give the Koulouria a slightly darker colour and a little sweetness.
For more background on Koulouria and Simit, please visit my friend Marianna and her site, “History of Greek Food”.
Koulouria Thessalonikis (Κουλούρια Θεσσαλονίκης)
(makes 20-25)
1 1/2 tsp. of active dry yeast
1 Tbsp. of honey
1 1/2 cup of tepid (warm) water
1 tsp. of fine sea salt
1/4 cup olive oil
3 1/2 to 3 3/4 cups of all purpose flour
2 Tbsp. of Petimezi (grape molasses) dilluted in 1 cup of water (or just water if you can’t find Petimezi)
1 cup of sesame seeds
Pre-heated 450F oven
Baking tray filled with hot water
- In a large bowl, add your dry yeast, honey and 1/2 cup of tepid water. Stir with a spoon and wait 10 minutes for the yeast to active.
- Add the sea salt, olive oil, the remaining 1 cup of tepid water and 1 cup of flour at a time, all the while mixing the dough with your hands. Continue to add flour while mixing with your hands. You will need anywhere from a total of 3 1/2 to 3 3/4 flour or until the dough is no longer sticky/tacky.
- Knead the dough for 10 minutes and then place in a bowl, rub the dough ball with a little oil and cover with plastic wrap. Allow to rest in a warm, draft-free part of your kitchen and rise until the doubles in size (in about an hour).
- Punch the dough down with your fist and turn the dough onto your baking surface. Cut the dough into pieces that will fit in the palm of your hand.
- Roll out eat piece of dough into the shape of a rope with your hands. If merely making a round Koulouri, roll out each piece of dough to about 8 inches in length. Form a circle and join the ends by pinching them together. If you wish to make the the braiding varietyy of Koulouri, roll out the dough to a length if 14 inches then lift up the dough with the two even ends hanging down. Now twist the bottom and top with your two hands to form the braid.
- Repeat forming your Koulouria and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Use one hand to dip the Koulouria in water (and Petimezi) and use the other hand to dip them in the tray with sesame seeds. Place the sesame-coated Koulouria back on your baking sheets.
- When your oven has reached a temperature of 450F, place a tray with hot water on the upper or lower rack and place the baking tray on the middle rack. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until just golden.
- Remove the Koulouria from the baking trays and allow to cool a bit a cooling rack. Eat warm or room temperature with cheese, marmalade or honey.
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© 2007-2010 Peter Minakis
They look really good! I live in Istanbul for the last 3 years, but I still can’t understand all the buzz about the simit in Turkey. They are everywhere and everyone’s eating them! I guess you must be native to understand that!
great post! koulouria thessalonikis is a great snak!
That is exactly what I had in mind to try and make! I have been eating a bunch of kaak (the equivalent here) made with grape molasses and I love it so much more than the plain ones! for one, they are sweeter! Love the shape of yours, very deftly made.
wicked!
these look perfect!
I love koulouria but, paidia, na prosekhete. One early morning I was walking along Tsimiski in Thess/niki and fancied a koulouri. A man was just lifting a huge basketful of fresh ones from the back of a van. I hurried towards the spot – they’d be freshand aromatic, maybe still warm. Then the delivery man sneezed hugely all over them. I went without.
So pretty and delicious looking! Very Greek indeed.
Cheers,
Rosa
Welcome back!
Peter: Glad you had a wonderful trip. I just go to Astoria, Queens, in New York and I am in Greece. These are delicious and you truly did a remarkable job. My dream is to visit your beautiful islans to bask in the sun, drin wine and break a few plates on the way.
Looks really good, especially with a morning coffee. Used to have them in Cyprus with milk before going to school .. yummy yummy.
yum yum yum yum!
Miss and love the koulouria from Thessaloniki- lucky you!
Will try and make them from your recipe this weekend!
Thanks and hope you’re well!
I can almost hear the crunch as I bite into one of these on-the-run treats. I am so happy that you are back. My internet experience can return to normal now!!
Well Peter, your post about koulouria puts mine to shame… Beautiful pictures, beautiful presentation. I’m kind of a traditionalist though: hard to get used to the idea of koulouria with fillings. Thank you for showing us this wonderful slice of life in our beautiful Thessaloniki, the bride of the Thermaikos gulf!
Loved reading your post…
The koulouria look absolutely delicious!!
I was waiting for your first post and this looks like a great way to start. Tackling street food is always tricky, but your simitia look gorgeous. I think they are the best snack on the go.
I love koulouria. Glad to hear you had such a good time in Greece and Turkey. 42 days? Wow that’s a lot!
Great start-off recipe!
Magda
Peter τι κρίμα που δεν καταφέραμε να ειδωθούμε αυτήν την φορά!
Χαίρομαι που πέρασες όμορφα στην Ελλάδα !!!
Περιμένουμε τωρα συνέχεια στις νόστιμες συνταγές σου!
Φιλιά, καλή βδομάδα!
Ah! The humble Greek koulouri! Funnily enough, my first memory of having them was after Greek church as well! Great recipe Peter and thanks for sharing!
So good to see you back. These look tasty. They look like Greek pretzels! :-)
This is truly incredible Mr. Kalofagas! You have inspired me to make koulouria now. Except I will have to forgo the petimezi. I’m glad you are back home safe and sound and can’t wait to read more about what inspired you from your latest patrida trek.
Good to have you back Peter :)
What a fantastic job you made of those!! I have had these when I was in Athens (a good while ago now) and I really liked the cheese filled ones :)
I just love the way you’ve recreated these to perfection! As I said – good to have you back.
Welcome back, Peter…you’ve been missed. Lots going on around the blogosphere as you may have already surmised.
I love this pretzel like bread. The first time I saw them on a street stand in Greece, I knew I had to have one!
Those are marvelous! I’d love to bite into one of those each morning. I didn’t have Koulouria when I was in Greece….I missed something wonderful. But now I can try yous!
I first saw them on Syntagma Square in Athens near the Grand Bretagne, although I must say I have never tried one since I was already full and like a tourist was in a rush.
What a beautiful bread! Your description of breakfast time in Greece, reminds me of breakfast time in Italy – everyone rushing to work with cornetto or tremezzino in hand (no coffee, because they downed it in one gulp at the bar on the way). Love this post – welcome back!
I’d be happy with that bread and a cup of black coffee for breakfast.
So glad your trip was a success Peter.
LL
I was wondering how much olive oil you used here, if you remember please.
Wonderful post, I am glad I have found your blog. Love Greece and now with your information I got to learn about Thessaloniki and Koulouria…
Sawadee from Bangkok,
Kris
Hi Peter,
Your trip looked amazing. You are blessed to be able to travel like that. So happy you had a good time. This treat reminds me of how in Germany the pretzel is everywhere. Each culture seems to have ther own version of things that are very much the same. Do you have a good recipe for koulourakia? I see that koulouria and koulourakia, the words look the same. So Greek lesson 101 what does the root koulour mean? Just wondering? Have a great day
Robin Sue
Hello
Koulouri simply means ’round’.
Cheers,
Sophie
Hello, i am sitting right now with my husband (he is Greek) who i sliterally drooling over your photos and blog. As am i. I was just asked by my bsiness partner if i knew how to make this and i said NO. Now i can say yes! She is also from Thessaloniki and is craving this. We are opening a deli/restaurant in london and she wants to seel these as a breakfast option. They look fantastic. I am definitely going to make these at some point today. Yummy! Love your blog.
These look great
I was preparing myself to make these now, but couldn’t figure out when you add the yeast mixture and grape molasses mixture into the dough!
Thank you for the wonderful and authentic recipe. My Greek boyfriend loved it and thought it was authentic.
i lived near Athens in the late ’50’s -early ’60s. We would go to Kavouri Beach – near Vouliagmeni. I remember buying these as a treat on the beach — men carrying heated glass containers on their backs would walk along the beach (how hot could that have been!!) selling them as snacks. I remember them as the most delicious treat ever !!
Now live in NYC and find them almost impossible to find. Poseidon Bakery (9th Ave & 43d) reports that they used to make them for the older crowd, but no longer … Of course, nothing tastes as good as a treat on the beach … in Greece!!
Follow your blog and love every tweet …. many delicious memories ! σας ευχαριστώ