Last year, one of the stops during my vacation to Greece was to Kastoria. Kastoria is the capital city of the Prefecture of…Kastoria. It’s located in northern Greece, northwestern Macedonia. This region of Greece is located on fertile, elevated plateaus and the economy is centered around its long history of fur trading, tourism and agriculture.
Kastoria is said to have gained its name from the beavers (kastores) that used to exist in the area. Wealthy (guilds or clans) of furriers were based here and to this day, the fur trade is integral to the area’s economy. Those same wealthy merchants were also part of equation in northern Greece’s struggle for independence (Macedonian Struggle). Kastoria and the region was a base from which the Hellenes of the north based their resistance to the double threat of the Ottomans and nearby expansionist Bulgaria. Bishop Germanos of Kastoria sparked this struggle for independence, Ion Dragoumis and the freedom fighter Pavlos Melas are well known for their integral role in northern Greece’s (Macedonia’s) independence.
Kastoria has been in existence since 880 BC and to this date, many Byzantine churches can be found in almost every town and village surrounding the capital. Tourists visit the area for the the beautiful green surroundings, lakes, rivers and mountains. Kastoria also is an architectural wonder with it’s many Macedonian still in tact and well kept throughout the city. It’s one of the few Greek cities to resist the blight of apartment blocks. Kastoria is another popular destination during Carnival and in the summer, the youth of the nation heads to the nearby town of Nestorio for the annual River Party and concert festival.
Kastoria’s local restaurants will offer you traditional Greek dishes of pork, lamb, veal or wild game. Also offered on the protein side are local trout and catfish. A thriving apple industry also exists but the most well-known agricultural industry is centered around legumes. Lentils and beans.
The most famous product of this industry are the Gigantes or elephant beans. The region of Kastoria and nearby Prespes has been cultivating legumes (pulses) since the late 17th Century. This region is ideal as it’s micro-climate of abundant water sources and humidity make it an ideal area for this crop. Kastoria produces a thin-skinned legume that is coveted by cooks who dread the thought of having to tame a tough, dried legume.
The Gigantes or Elephant beans of Kastoria are planted in the Spring to avoid the cold winter of the region. The sowing of seeds begins in April and continues until early June. The beans from Kastoria/Prespes are recognized as products of Protected Geographical Indication (PGI).
In order to preserve and protect traditional foods of each country, the European Union in 1992, released by Regulation 1208, which establishes the terms and conditions under which a product can get PDO status (Protected Designation of Origin) or PGI (Protected Geographical Indication).
The farming of the legumes in the Kastoria/Prespes area has largely remained in family hands with traditional farming methods being passed down from generation to generation. The use of farm machinery is kept to a minimum.
Beans are members of the legume family, meaning the fruit grows in pods. With some 13,000 species, the legume family is the second largest in the plant kingdom. Plants of the legume family provide food, pharmaceuticals, oil, dyes, timber and ornamental plants. Legumes contain protein in larger quantities than any other cultivated food.
Gigantes beans, navy beans, lentils and chickpeas are enjoyed all over Greece and recipes vary from region to region and from home to home. The ingredients in the recipes will vary according to local ingredients, custom or just plain tastes.
The version I’m providing here is my family’s recipe, a northern Greek recipe. Most recipes throughout Greece will contain a base of onion, celery and carrots but after that, the flavourings can (and do vary). Bay, cinnamon, clove are some of the spices used and herbs such as parsley, dill, mint or thyme may be used.
This particular recipe uses bay leaves, parsley and dill for the main flavours. Some recipes call for the gigantes to be soaked overnight. This recipe doesn’t require this step. Instead, a quick boil plus a simmer in a court bouillon are suffice to soften the beans. After that, the beans are finished in the oven and on the dinner table just a couple off hours. It’s important to note: add your salt (seasoning) just before mixing your final ingredients before going in the oven. Adding salt early on will cause your beans to be tough.
My family likes Gigantes on their own as a vegetarian main or as a side with a baked fish (Plaki) or some grilled or fried sausages. Just yesterday I had some beans with some grilled Macedonian sausages. 
Another fave is to pair the gigantes with fish. Here, I grilled a fillet of rainbow trout that was simply seasoned (salt and pepper) and finished with with a squeeze of lemon juice.
Got some leftover gigantes? Try a Gigantes Bean Bruschetta or add some Gigantes into your food processor with some olive oil and turn into a dip.
Before you can try and taste any of these ideas, you first have to soften then bake some Gigantes. Let’s head to the kitchen!
Baked Gigantes Beans (Γίγαντες στο φούρνο)
500 gr. dried Gigantes or elephant beans (look for butter beans as well)
1 large carrot, peeled, halved lengthwise and cut into 1/2 inch pieces
1 large stalk of celery, diced
1 cup diced onion
3 cloves of garlic, smashed
1/3 cup of olive oil
3 bay leaves
1 cup of fresh parsley, chopped
1/4 cup of fresh dill, finely chopped
1/2 cup tomato puree (or 3-4 very ripe tomatoes, passed through a box grater)
1 heaping Tbsp. of tomato paste
1/2 tsp. smoked paprika
2 Tsp. of sea alt
1/4 tsp. black pepper
squirt of ketchup (optional)
- Place the beans in a large pot. Fill the pot with enough water to cover the beans. Bring to a boil, simmer for 2 minutes and drain (this step reduces the beans from causing flatulence).
- Place the beans back in pot along with the carrot, celery, bay leaves and garlic and fill the pot with enough water to cover the contents by 1 inch. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer and cook for approx. 45 minutes or until the beans are soft (taste one). Take off the heat and reserve (including the liquid).
- In a large skillet, add your olive oil and onions and saute them on medium heat for 10-15 minutes to soften. Add the tomato sauce, paprika, salt, pepper, ketchup, parsley and stir in together. Set aside.
- Using a slotted spoon, place your beans, celery, carrot, bay leaves into a large baking casserole. Now add all of the contents of your skillet to the bean mixture in the casserole.
- Pour in enough reserved bean liquid to cover everything in the casserole. Mix well and adjust seasoning. Place in a pre-heated 375F oven and bake uncovered for 40-45 minutes.
- Remove the baking vessel from the oven and add your dill.
39 Responses
Delicious dish Peter and while we do not have elephant beans here I can see this working really well ( as you suggested) with butterbeans too and I love the idea of that dip!
The only beans I ever had growing up were from a can and served on toast every Friday night. It was a long time before I would eat beans again. Now if I had been served these beans I may never have had an aversion to them.
That bean casserole must taste divine! A wonderful dish that must be comforting!
Cheers,
Rosa
Peter Kastoria is one of the prettiest Greek towns. I was quite impressed when I visited a few years ago. And the gigantes are definitely their best product (along with fur). I make them in much a similar way, but without the dill. I don’t seem to like dill with red sauces for some reason.
I made this yesterday! :) however, didn’t add carrot.
Randomly threw in things together and made it with Northern Beans. Very versatile.
They are absolutly the best gigantes! We have another greek grand of gigantes and you can’t even compare them to the Kastoria ones.
looking foward to trying this recipe, i can’t recall if i ever had these made using paprika. Love the pics!
OK that’s it, I need to order some gigantes TODAY! Your bean dishes have been so good lately Peter!
Oh my those beans look amazingly good!
I’ve never heard of elephant beans! They are extraordinary. And that dish look divine. Pleased we can substitute other beans.
My trip to Greece several years ago did not include Kastoria. It looks beautiful.
Thanks for the tour of Kastoria Peter! It looks so tranquil and lovely :)
I’d like to try my hand at gigantes someday. Cos even the leftovers look good! :)
Love the look and all the ingredients in this but you can’t get those big beans here!…….. Apart from in a small jar with tomato sauce. Can get butter beans – no worries there, but I want BIG beans!
I’ll have to give it a go with butter beans as it looks so good!
beavers and carnivals and elephant beans, oh my! beans are practically my life force, so the bigger the are, the more excited i am about them. :)
You could pile some of these on a slice of crusty bread and I would be a happy girl. What a delicious recipe and I adore the second photo as the water looks so perfectly gentle. How relaxing. Will you be going to Greece again this summer?
looks damn good man – looks damn good. reminds me of a cassoulet – which I now have a craving for!
I do love all kinds of beans, but gigantes might be my favorite! I wish I had some of these baking away in the oven right now.
Love it with the sausage Peter, wow does that look good!
Never heard of elephant beans but they look delicious in that casserole. Are they anything like lupini beans?
Gigantes are one of my moth favorite things in the world. I made your recipe already : ) Good stuff Mr. Kalofagas!
τι να Ï€Ïωτοθαυμάσω Ï€Î®Ï„ÎµÏ Î¼Î¿Ï… ?? την πανεμοÏφη ΚαστοÏιά ??? το πεντανόστιμο φαγάκι σου ?? την Ï…Ï€ÎÏοχη παÏουσιαση ??? ολα Ï„Îλεια !!!
πολλά φιλια
ποιος μποÏεί να αντισταθεί σε Ï„Îτοιο φαγάκι!!!!!!!!
Peter ΚαστοÏιά πήγαμε τα ΧÏιστοÏγεννα για δεÏτεÏη φοÏά, πανÎμοÏφη πόλη.
ΑγοÏάσαμε γίγαντες μια αλλιώτικη ποικιλία με μαÏÏους, είναι πολλοί ωÏαίοι.
ΑγαπημÎνο φαγητό, τους Ï€ÏοσθÎτω και λουκάνικο!!
Peter, I love this classic! I actually love that idea for a dip! Must try it soon!
That pot of beans looks so good! 13,000 species of legumes, really?????These photos and the little Byzantine church are dreamy. Sigh. Hey, my best friend from childhoods last name is Germanos, I wonder if that has a greek origin? maybe Byzantine
Love the dish Peter, and think it might work with snail beans, ooopsie, navy beans! The fact that it’s baked to finish makes it quite intriguing and moreish! Thanks too for sharing some historical and cultural background as always … the connect makes the read very interesting.
Those are some big beans! I think this lovely dish would be fun to experiment swapping out other beans too.
Beautiful photos. I never thought of beavers in Greece! Love that byzantine building!
This bean casserole looks sooo tasty!! Must try it soon :)
I recently started a food blog and since I am Greek and many of my posts/recipes will be related to Greece/Greek cooking, I performed a search and came across your site. I am glad I found it for many reasons, but I have to say that this post particularly touched my heart since my father is from Kastoria and it has been almost 10 years since I have been able to go back. I thank you for bringing back wonderful memories and for sharing your great recipe!
Efharisto!
Katerina
Ένα από τα πιο αγαπημÎνα μου φαγητά, κι ας μην Îχω πάει ποτΠστην ΚαστοÏιά!
The baked dish looks really delicious though I don’t think I could eat that many beans as a meal without having rice or some protein to accompany it. I love all your suggestions, especially that sausage!
I’m a little late to the comment party here – but I just made these and they are the best I’ve ever had – thanks, Peter!
I will pick butterbeans in my garden first and I’ll cook this. Many thanks for the recipe, PM.
Cheers.
Arfi
Cooking them right now! The house is full of aromas.Mouths are watering and waiting. ( explosives will follow after dinner…)
A good blog for the most part, but at times, the English is jarringly colloquial, which does not blend well with the rest of the text.
This a food site – not English 101. :)
“Anything worth doing is worth doing well,” or “Good, better, best, never let it rest, till your good is better, and your better best.”
I just made these for the second time. I didn’t have dried beans available so used butter beans from the tin . They were still delicious. I love your website it has lots of options for vegetarians which I love
These sound amazing! Just one question do you cover the beans when you pit in the oven? TIA
Uncovered.